Sure that the dropouts broke due to no using of torque arms but also the KU controller delivers 30A (~W) to the motor which is a LOT!!. I received a spare controller for it today. It is 36v w and internally it looks almost exactly like a KU The difference being that this one has. I have redesigned the KU63 motor controller from BMSbattery. Here is the circuit: Don’t use the image above, download the circuit high.

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Endless Sphere

I can figure out some of them without opening mine. I am unsure what the pink wires do. The reason that it looks messy is because the tracks have been beefed up after wave soldering.

Finally I just run the printf example I found on github. Blue is return 36v from panel The white wire next to the black one is the speed limiter ground. This, I guess, is the moment when I decide how I’m going to move forward on that given that the original plan didn’t work out. Yours doesn’t have the jumper, so I guess you’re pollacksed. My workflow will be like this: Deleted member Guest Dec 29, Neither have been done, but they should be OK at 15 amps.

It should be ZL.

So may photos controoller diagrams, and the chap had even explained all the mods possible. When you pull that to ground, the CPU starts driving the motors backward.


You can spend often quite a lot of money to flail about until you figure out a tiny bit, and then iterate.

So let’s start with the hall sensors, shall we? Government releases 2 year action plan to improve road safety Started by: If you cut the jumper, it reverted to normal throttle operation.

The motor is a direct drive one: View all 5 project logs. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread.

By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. So after reverse engineering my reverse engineering work to remember where the heck I left it all off, I started building: LIGeek is organized by the same folks; they reached back out to ask if I’d be part of a panel on building these things. So, of course, I wired them up. This translates directly in to my engineering mantra: If you use an in-line hall sensor or similar, the signal goes to SL and the other two are 5v and 0v.

However, what this enhanced controller does is that it is always trying to apply a correction to fix the angle issue that the controller itself created confusing, right? All legal ebike here doesn’t have trottle at all, we can choose motor assistance only from display.

The controller therefore only had four ku6 coming out of it: So until someone translates it for me, “nameless” they shall remain.


S-KU63 W15A 6Mosfets Controller

I will post some detailed images when I get home from work. The only one that’s fixed is the brake wire. The problem is that there’s several inputs to the CPU around the PCB, and the programmer can use any of them for anything. I needed to rebuild the motorized base; I needed it to use more powerful motors than I’d been able to contoller as brushed DC motors; I knew that hoverboards existed ou63 were able to move a person.

S-KU93 36V 48V 450W22A 9Mosfets Controller

I need a controller that delivers no more than W, it’s my target since I want to always pedal and I used a W motor but I need just more W to win against the wind. I am being using the donations to buy needed resources for my developments.

I have a KU63 and KU65 in front of me. And the pulse length is the amount of time that sensor stays active, so it’s inversely proportional to the speed. If so, then maybe my rewire is just feeding a higher voltage back, regardless of what the panel is showing the leds do step through the three settings when the pas button is pushed.